Well I have finally finished building my Kyosho Vone S3 cup addition 2 and very proud of it. Now a couple of questions, will anyone be able to help me fit my shell to my car and get the car started and run in on the next meet (21st of October)?

At the moment I have just rubber tyers on the car that came with the box, What is recomeneded for a beginner and for racing?
What spare parts should I carry with me?
What type of tools should be carried to a normal race meet?


Thanks for the help

Bruce

get yourself a set of foam 40 fronts and 2 sets of 40 rears.
generally speaking 40's are the all round tyre.

get a set of hex drivers so you can adjust the all the grub screws
for droop etc.

spares...well this is my first year and ive had to replace
2x rear suspension arms
2x rear suspension hubs
2x wheel hubs
1x brake lever (now the al version)
and 4-5 glow plugs

Bruce,

Nice choice in cars, I have a couple of S3's a Cup 1 & Cup2 which i shall be running at the Nationals at the end of the month. As far as parts and tools go Richo has about covered it as a starting point. My view on tyers is that if you are just starting out in racing for your first few meets or so the Vslick tyers that come with the kit are fine, if your anything like i was or still am as some may say, you'll be doing an impression of a pin ball machine between the boards for your first few meets, foam tyers tend to chunk when you do that.

Fit The Body

Tools that make the job easier: Dremmel sanding drum, reemer, Lexan Sissors

Cut around the skirt to the line marked remove the wing portion

Position the body over the car making sure that it just clears the bumper and has even clearance allround

Mark with a texta where the body post are and drill out to suit.

position the body post supports (my Cup 2 supports are Rear: place 3mm piece of foam on the rear post don't use the kit spacer, body pins will be used on the first hole up. Front: position the kit support/spacer on the 3rd hole up.)

Place the body on the car, check that when you press down on the car to bottom out the suspension that none of the skirt comes into contact with the surface the car is resting on.

Cut out the wheel arches making sure that when you press the body into the towards the wheel it does not make contact. I try to make sure that the front wheel arch has no vertical material left so it tends not to crack as much.

Cut (use reemer or dremmel) holes for exhaust and glow starter

Cooling holes

GXR motors love to run hot so the more air you can get past them the better, the following is based on achieving this.

Cut a hole in the front windscreen that allows you to access the fuel tank make use of the allowable 50% of the windscreen area.

Cut out the whole rear windscreen

Cut out both front side windows being careful not to cut into the rear side windows.

Cut out the wing and position use 2 screws per side rather that just 1 provided.

Paint Prep

Give the underside of the body a good workover with a green plastic scourer in warm water and detergent being careful not to intrude into the window areas.

Painting

Don't ask me I havn't a clue but other club members have. Just ask....

Note; The best thing you can have in your tool kit for bodies is "shoe goo" you can buy it at Rebel Sport get the clear version. I always put a smear under my front wheel arches once painted. Also repairs to rips and cracks are nearly stronger than the lexan.

good luck and i'll see you at the next race day.


Gav.

Thanks guys for all your help. My only delimer now is the steel wire that conects to the body to the exhaust needs to be cut becasue it is to long. How has anyone cut that piece before?

Before I bring the car to the track on the 21st should I get the local hobby shop to run the car in or should I just leave it up to anyone who wants to help me on the day?


Regards,

Bruce

Hey Bruce,
A good solid pair of pliers or a dremmle will cut it be careful of the fly away cut end.


Running in the engine will take some time so it is proberly preferable to at least get a couple of tanks through before race day.

OK running in the engine is not that hard but you need to make sure of a few things. First check the top end needle valve by screwing it clockwise till it stops then turnout 2 & half turns this is your starting run in position. Do the same for the bottom end needle valve. Fill your tank and start the engine it will proberly be hard to start the first time so place you finger over the exhaust outlet for a few pulls of the starter. Place the car on a foam or wood block and idle the tank of fuel through if the engine stops running turn up the idle screw and continue. Do the same for the next tank giving the engine light revs. If you have a temp gauge try and keep the temp around 100 degree C.

If you are not comfortable or unsure about the above procedure we will be more than happy to help out next race day.

Good luck
Gav